The option of media blasting or washing before a stain recoat depends heavily on the current condition of your logs, the type of coating already on them, and your goals for longevity and aesthetics.
Let’s break it down clearly:
Option 1: Wash and Recoat
Best When:
- The current finish is still mostly intact
- There’s light surface discoloration, mildew, or dirt
- You’ve maintained the home regularly (every 3–5 years)
- You’re using the same product line (e.g., reapplying the same stain)
Typical Process:
- Clean logs (mild detergent or log wash)
- Rinse and dry thoroughly
- Lightly sand trouble spots (optional)
- Reapply stain or clear coat
Limitations:
- Won’t remove old, failed coatings
- Won’t fix dark staining, UV damage, or graying
- Can trap moisture under failing coatings if not prepped well
Option 2: Media Blasting + Full Recoat
Best When:
- Old stain or paint is peeling, flaking, or failing
- You’re switching to a different brand or type of finish (e.g., oil to water-based)
- Logs show UV damage, graying, or heavy mildew
- You want a fresh, even look across the entire home
- You want to maximize longevity and adhesion
Typical Process:
- Media blast using corn cob, walnut shell, glass, or sodium bicarbonate
- Follow with log sanding to smooth raised grain (recommended)
- Apply borate preservative
- Re-stain and topcoat
Benefits:
- Fully removes failed stain, mold, and UV damage
- Allows better penetration and adhesion of new stain
- Gives logs a fresh, like-new appearance
- Increases the lifespan of the new finish (by 5–10+ years with proper maintenance)
So When Should You “Go Big” with Media Blasting?
Situation Recommendation
Stain is peeling or flaking = Media blast
You want to switch stain types = Media blast
Wood is grayed, blackened, or UV-damaged = Media blast
You’ve skipped maintenance >5 years = Media blast
You want the longest-lasting result = Media blast
So When Should You “Go” with just a Wash?
Light dirt, good stain adhesion = Just wash + recoat
Budget is limited, logs still solid = Just wash + recoat
Practical Tip:
If your logs were previously sealed with a film-forming stain (e.g., Sikkens or a varnish-like finish), washing won’t fix it once it starts peeling—you’ll need to blast.
On the other hand, if you used a penetrating stain like Perma-Chink, Sashco, or Weatherall, and it’s just faded (not failing) you can usually wash and recoat without blasting.
If you have questions on the best options for your home, give the team at 888 Log Guys a call to help guide you through determining which way to go.
